A well-dressed man who pays attention to style and strives to look polished in every situation knows that details make all the difference. To make the right impression – and avoid looking out of place at the office, during a business dinner or while traveling for work – it is essential to consider the cut, color, quality and overall style of the garments you choose. Just as important, however, are the smaller details such as buttons, pockets, cuffs and – last but certainly not least – collars. Often overlooked, these subtle elements actually have a significant impact on an outfit, helping to define its tone and level of formality and making it more or less suitable for different settings.

This is especially true when choosing a shirt, the type of collar plays a leading role. Those who favor men’s Italian shirts, for example, should be aware that button-down collars are ideal for achieving a smart-casual look in relaxed business environments, but may feel out of place in highly formal settings or during important meetings.

Elegant men’s work shirts: the main collar styles

Elegant men’s shirt – especially high-quality, made in Italy designs – offer a wide range of styles and constructions, each completed with collars tailored to different occasions. While there are many options to choose from, the most common collar styles for work shirts can be grouped into five main types: the bowling collar, button-down, open collar, closed (classic) collar and smoking collar. Building a wardrobe that includes at least one elegant shirt for each of these collar styles ensures you will always have the right option on hand for any professional situation – from the most creative and informal environments to those that require strict adherence to a formal dress code.

Bowling collar

Bowling collar is defined by its soft construction and distinctly casual feel. Typically found on shirts made from lightweight fabrics and often paired with short sleeves, it is a bold choice for business settings and works best in creative, informal environments where hierarchy is less emphasized and strict dress codes do not apply. Designed to be worn without a tie, the bowling collar should be avoided for administrative meetings or formal occasions that call for a more structured look.

Button-down collar

Ideal for those who want to maintain a smart-casual style during fast-paced workdays, the button-down collar is quite different from the bowling collar. Defined by the buttons that secure the collar points, it gives the outfit a neat, polished and highly practical appearance. Best worn without a tie or paired with a tie pied in a small, understated know, the button-down collar has a sporty, youthful character that makes it ideal for casual work environments and for professionals in creative roles. It can also be appropriate in more formal settings, provided they are relaxed and creatively oriented. It is not recommended for job interviews or meetings held at traditional law firms, public institutions, banks or similarly conservative workplaces.

Open collar and closed collar

Among the main collar styles that complete elegant men’s work shirts are the open collar and the closed collar.

The open collar, also known as the French collar, features short, widely spaced points that give the shirt a refined, contemporary look. Designed primarily for more relaxed and modern business environments, it is actually extremely versatile and can be worn in both formal and informal settings. However, it is less suitable for highly structured and traditional contexts. It pairs particularly well with tie knots such as the Full Windsor or Half Windsor.

The closed collar, defined by its narrow, downward-pointing collar tips set close together, is more formal and therefore ideal for important meetings, business appointments and job interviews in traditional corporate settings. It conveys seriousness and composure and is the most classic option among the collars discussed so far. For this reason, it is the go-to choice whenever a formal, tradition dress code must be respected. Best paired with a tie tied in a four-in-hand or Pratt knot, shirts with a closed collar are perfectly appropriate for everyday office wear.

Smoking collar

The fifth type of collar that defines the finest elegant men’s shirts – and one that should never be missing from the wardrobe of anyone who wants to always have the right garment on hand – is the smoking collar.

This small collar, typically featuring open points that angle outward, is designed to be worn with a bow tie. Because of its distinctive characteristics, the smoking collar is reserved exclusively for special events and formal evening occasions. It should not be worn in any other context, not even in highly formal business settings.

Enhancing the collar with the right outfit

Choosing an elegant shirt with the right collar is only the first step toward looking polished and appropriate in any professional environment. The next step is pairing it with the right outfit – one that highlights and enhances this small yet essential details.

For example, a shirt with a bowling collar pairs well with tailored chinos, an unstructured blazer and a clean pair of sneakers, creating a modern, creative and minimalist look. A button-down shirt, on the other hand, is best elevated with a two-piece suit, simply styled tie and a pair of classic derbyshoes, striking the perfect balance between refinement and practicality.