Before we get stuck into where to eat, what to see, and where to get off your head watching live music etc, I think it’s important to put into context why I'm drawn to Russian nightlife and culture. It’s no endorsement of the Kremlin, I'm more in tune with what Dylan Moran said in a recent interview with The Metro:
"I like performing there. When people talk about Russia they mean the Kremlin, not the Russian people. Everyone forgets that. They’re just people trying to live their lives and forget about their government."
I'm also encouraged by the below quote from Phil Ochs because whilst being a revolutionary and taking to the streets is historically the biggest arbitrator for social change, I see resistance and agency in what the bands are doing outside of direct action.
"In such ugly times, the only true protest is beauty” (Phil Ochs)
If Phil Ochs is right, and there is currency for progress in being beautiful, then Wet Red – one of the bands about to take your hand through the best parts of Moscow – are a righteous bunch.
I’m drawn to them for a number of reasons: they sing about absinthe; they're sexy and play bangers with a beat and groove that gets people dancing; live they're an eye-popping ear drum shattering force of nature. They’re definitely a band that could tear the roof off Brixton Academy. In summary, the band tread the line between mainstream pop rock of No Doubt, the jaggedness of industrial post-punk Nine Inch Nails, which makes them especially apt for that venue. Inextricable from their sound is their visual aesthetic: they're intricately styled with headdresses and look somewhat like White Stripes on acid. I'm curious where they drink.
Meanwhile, Glintshake – your other cultural connoisseurs in this list – are the best post-punk band around at the minute and their sound captures is indicative of a group who get the most out of life. Their latest album, features “Sparks-y oddball pop tracks (‘Тени’), and bits that could be early Siouxsie & The Banshees singing in tongues until the military-grade jazz drugs kick in.” Can’t say you’re not tempted to check them out? Plus a fine taste in music usually reverts to a fine taste in many things.
Our third and final cultural guide is Glintshake’s lead singer, Kate NV. She been working on her solo stuff in the past few weeks so has talked to us on separately about what she suggests to do. NV makes some of the most beguiling electronic music around and is massively fond of art. Notably, the singer's the only one here not suggesting you go and get pissed at dinner or go out the whole time; so get a load of her recommendations if you want to save your liver and go home with some great photos. Check out the list below, and go home from Russia feeling like you completed Moscow as well as seen the best football on the planet…
Best bars...
Chaynaya: This is the best speakeasy bar in Moscow. It serves the finest cocktails in the whole city, but it is very small. We recommend to call well ahead of time to find out if tables are available
Address: 1-Ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya Ulitsa, 29, Moskva, Russia, 125047
(WR)
Proliv Bar: This has a unique and interesting choice of different liqueurs and special shots. They get even better above 50% ABV. Very nice and cozy place to be off your head.
Nikitsky Blvd, 12, Moskva, Russia, 119019
(GS)
Entusiast: A Favourite bar for Moscow party animals. You can meet famous Russian musicians, journalists, and curators of the best venues in Moscow. You'll see Gosha Rubchinsky's friends and many more interesting people. It's hard sometimes to get inside at night, but it's free and open all day, so it's the best place to catch a beer and a tasty sandwich.
Столешников пер., 7 стр.5, Москва, г. Москва, Russia, 107031
(GS)
Denis Simachev Shop & Bar: This bar is situated on the decadent street named Stoleshnikov Pereulok. As well as serving delicious food and cocktails it is also known for putting on the funnest and most stylish parties in the city. Think Berghain’s strict? Think again. Wear something fancy for this place.
Pereulok Stoleshnikov, 12 стр. 2, Moskva, Russia, 125009
(WR)
Ritz Carlton Hotel: The roof patio of the Ritz Carlton Hotel is the most hedonistic roof in Moscow, where you can watch the football and look at the Kremlin at the same time — they set a flat-screen TV on the terrace. On Fridays, they have Bubbles Up sunset parties on the roof where Eva Vostroknutova from WET RED is one of the resident performers.
Tverskaya St, 3, Moskva, Russia, 125009
(WR)
Let's eat.
Uzbeki Food! Fergenskaya chahana : Just to warn you this is not an English speaking place at all. It's frequented predominantly by Uzbeki people and it's got a reputation for serving on very tasty and authentic cuisine. In keeping with the traditional theme there is no music. It's very cheap and maybe even the cheapest place for this kind of food in Moscow and we can't recommend it enough.
Bolshaya Akademicheskaya, 35, Moscow 125008, Russia
(GS)
Live music
Moscow Conservatory: Don't think, just check the program and go. We recommend the legendary Rakhmaninov Hall, where during the beginning of the 20th century they presented the pieces by Shostakovitch and others. Now it’s more about contemporary music from all over the world.
Bol'shaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa, 13/6, Moskva, Russia, 125009
(GS)
Pluton A New venue/club with the most interesting program in Moscow now. If you want to see the best emerging acts, and alternative sound from Moscow, it's the best place. It doesn't matter if it’s an evening concert or a party during the night.
Nizhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya Ulitsa, 8а, Moskva, Russia, 105120
(GS)
Something sober
VDNKh: This is a colossal space which is almost impossible to navigate without a bike. There are incredibly beautiful soviet era pavilions, access to the Moscow botanical garden and apple orchards. Also, there’s the worker and kolkhoz woman statue that was erected to symbolize the eternal union of the working class and peasantry in Soviet Russia.
But don’t mistake this place for an ordinary tourist trap. There this is an amazing vibe here. It gives you a feeling akin to what you could get if you mixed the serene feeling of being on holiday for the rest of your life with that of being trapped in trashy horror film. It’s somewhere you’ll see Spiderman selling balloons next to the giant golden Versailles-esque fountain. Somewhere to see a scientific conference or visit an exhibition or walk through the biggest botanical garden in the city. It's somewhere to see some real space rockets standing by soviet buildings before you buy an ice cream and take a picture with a monkey. You can ride a horse or go to a mirror labyrinth, and of course, buy yourself a fur coat in the end. In short, for me, VDNKh is Russia in miniature.
Prospekt Mira, 119, Moskva, Russia, 129223
(KV)
Also check out:
Tretyakov Gallery: Check out the Tretyakov Gallery for its brilliant permanent exhibition. The building is going to be reconstructed pretty soon so it’s also a great chance to get there before any work is done and still catch the vibe of soviet greatness and power.
Lavrushinsky Ln, 10, Moskva, Russia, 119017
(KV)
Soviet Architecture in general: Forget the fact it’s trendy, Soviet architecture is staggering to look at. The most impressive examples are Russian State Library, ZIL and the Palace of Pioneers. (KV)
