Breaking news: quiet luxury is out, statement luxury is in.
Well, that’s a bit of an oversimplification, but the point remains: we’ve officially entered the “spectacle” era; ask anyone tracking haute joaillerie, and they’ll confirm. From red carpets to record-setting auctions and the debut of the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie, the spotlight’s obviously moving toward designers rewriting the rules of modern glamour.
Even as the broader luxury market slows down — global spending sat around €1.48 trillion in 2024 — fine jewellery continues to outperform, holding both emotional and investment weight. That’s why the names setting this season’s tone are the ones to watch; those that still manage to capture attention now are the ones shaping what glamour looks like next.
And if you’re serious about understanding where luxury style is heading, these are the designers, and the statement pieces, you should be watching right now.
The Event That’s Shaping The Conversation
A new trophy in high jewellery — the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie — just put several houses in the headlines (and gave collectors a shortlist of “must-watch” creative directions). At the inaugural ceremony in Monaco, maisons such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., Dior and Chopard were singled out across categories, and the evening underscored how prestige events steer market and media focus.
The debut of the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie — the industry event where the world’s “Most Revered” jewelers compete — only confirms it: spectacle, not subtlety, now defines modern glamour.
Designers To Follow: Who’s Actually Setting The Pace
Here’s a shortlist of luxury brands that mix heritage houses with boundary-pushing makers.
- Tiffany & Co. Their archival language and contemporary collaborations keep them in the headlines; recent jury prizes underline their continued cultural cachet.
- Chanel Haute Joaillerie. The house is doubling down on sculptural technique and bold colored stones (the kind of statement pieces that translate visually on camera).
- Louis Vuitton & Dior Haute Joaillerie. Expect theatrical presentation and storytelling pieces; both brands are maximizing editorial moments (and awards).
- Messika and smaller ateliers. Look for technically ingenious, contemporary diamond treatments that read modern on set and real life
The Statement Pieces Everyone’s Talking About
Certain silhouettes dominate right now, and one thing’s for sure: they’re not subtle.
- Necklaces and chokers that frame the face. Big collars, layered tennis styles and architectural chokers showed up heavily at festivals and awards this year. They’re sing-out pieces for celebrities and stylists because a single necklace can dominate a look.
- Cuff bracelets and wide bangles. Cuffs made a comeback on red carpets. When proportioned correctly, they give a modern edge and photograph extremely well. Consider open-worked metal or a heavy, gem-inset cuff as the season’s bracelet play.
- Large coloured-stone rings. Saturated sapphires, emeralds and aquamarines are in demand. The spectacle pieces (like stones north of 20 carats) trend on auction blocks and in editorial spreads.
- Asymmetric and sculptural earrings. Long, architectural drops and mismatched pairs let stylists create tension without overcomplicating an outfit. They pair especially well with slicked back hair at formal events.
How to Wear Statement Pieces Without Looking Overdone
If you’re drawn to pieces with presence, not costume-level flash, a few practical rules help you pull them off without overdoing it:
- Let one piece dominate. If the necklace is the showstopper, opt for a slim cuff and small studs elsewhere. Balance is about negative space.
- Match metal temperatures intentionally. Mixing warm gold with rhodium-blackened accents can read contemporary, but be deliberate: choose a dominant metal and let one accent metal punctuate.
- Scale for proportion. A heavy cuff should sit comfortably on the wrist (not fight the sleeve). Statement rings want shorter nails or a single coordinating manicure color; otherwise they look busy.
- Make versatility part of the plan. Modular designs, like detachable pendants and adjustable cuffs, are how you justify serious investment. They move easily from red carpet to real life and feel fresh every time you wear them.
How Trends Increase Value And What To Buy Now
Award recognition and red-carpet exposure move attention, and often secondary-market value. Pieces that combine technical rarity (complex settings, high-quality colored stones), provenance (house, designer), and visibility (press, celebrity) are likelier to outperform.
Bain’s luxury studies show jewellery’s steady position within the luxury mix, which makes knowing the designers and the standout pieces this season more than just a style decision; it’s smart buying, too.
What To Watch This Season
Keep an eye on Grand Prix winners and festival coverage (Cannes and Monaco moments surface what stylists are choosing). Also watch boutiques and auction previews: the next “it” piece usually shows up in both spaces within a season.
Follow the maisons above, add a couple of contemporary ateliers to your roster, and you’ll be first to spot the next statement silhouette.
